Sewing Stitch Classification | Stitch classification according to British Standard 3870:1991 & ISO Standard 4915:1991

Introduction: Stitch is the fundamental element of sewing, which is done for joining different parts of garments whether hand or machine. A stitch is one kind of single turn or loop, creates by thread or yarn. When this loop or loops of one or more thread joined with each other,  either interlacing, interloping, intra-looping then it called stitch.

In this post, I discussed the British Standards 3870:1991 & ISO Standards 4915:1991.

Garment Stitching

Different types of stitch are used for different joining in a garment. All of these stitches are classified into 6 groups according to British standards 3870:1991. Those are;

1. Stitch class – 100 (Single thread chain stitch ).
2. Stitch class – 200 (Hand stitch ).
3. Stitch class – 300 (Lock stitch ).
4. Stitch class – 400 (Multi-thread chain stitch ).
5. Stitch class – 500 (Over-edge stitch).
6. Stitch class – 600 (Covering chain stitch). 

But according to the group of stitch, we find 4 groups of stitch class, Lock stitch (300), Chain stitch (400), Over-edge stitch (500), Covering stitch (600). Stitch class 100 is used most in shirt and stitch class 200 used very less in the sewing process.

1. Stitch Class 100 (Single Thread Chain Stitch): The Single Thread chain stitch is created by a needle thread and distinguished by interlopes. A needle thread is passed over the fabric in this chain stitch forms a needle Loop, protected by the following loop that consists of the same thread.

Uses: Most widely used in blind sewing, stitching, button attachment, button-holing, temporary position of clothing elements, etc.

2. Stitch Class-200 (Hand Stitch): Stitch Class-200, which is called a hand-stitch made from a single thread, passes through the fabric on each side and secures the stitch by a single thread line that passes inside and outside the fabric.

Uses: In the Ready-Made Garments (RMG) market, this stitches category is very rare because they are very expensive to manufacture. Such types of stitches are used to stitch expensive clothing, jackets and sample garments.

3. Stitch class – 300 (Lock stitch ): Stitch Class-300 is called lock stitch formed by interlacing two or more groups of threads. There, the threads of one group move through the cloth and are protected by the second group thread, where one group is called needle thread and another group is referred to as bobbin thread. 

Uses: Used extensively as the pocket, collar, cuff, face joining or any type of topstitching in sewing and material attachment.

You may read: Different Types of Sewing Defects with Root Causes, CAP, And PAP | Part - 1

4. Stitch class – 400 (Multi-thread chain stitch ): Stitch Class-400 is classified as a multi-thread stitch which consists of two or more thread groups. In this case, loops of one thread group are passed through the fabric and sealed with loops of another thread. Another group is known as needle thread and another class is known as a looper thread.

Uses: Used for joining heavy fabrics, side seam of trouser, etc purposes.

5. Stitch class – 500 (Over-edge stitch): Stitches in this category are made with one or more threads (one needle thread and two or more looper threads) and at least one group of threads around the edge of the fabric avoid fraying, i.e. threads from the edge of the fabric can not be produced. Sometimes Stitch is called over locked under this category, but it is really over edge. 

Uses: The type stitch is used in the edge finishing of knitted textiles, where stitch extensible is important, as well as in sportswear.

6. Stitch class – 600 (Covering chain stitch): Class-600 is referred to as the chain cover stitch created using three thread classes. Here you can see threads from both sides of the two classes. The first type of thread is called a needle thread in class 600 (Covering Chain Stitch), the second group is referred to as a top thread for the cover and the third is named bottom thread for the cover.

Uses: This form of the stitch is used for underwear stitching, splicing, braiding, etc. It is also used to render cover, ornamental stitch and topstitching.

Now, see the ISO 4915:1991 standards sewing stitch classification:

Stitch Glossary
Stitch Code	Stitch Name	Machine Type	No.of Needles & Threads	Uses
301	Lock Stitch	Single needle lock stitch M/C	1 Needle Thread & 1 Bobbin Theard	Top Stitch Assembly
302	Lock Stitch	Double needle lock stitch M/C	2 Needle Thread & 2 Bobbin Theard	Top Stitch Assembly
304	Zig-Zag Lock stitch	Zig-Zag M/C	1 Needle Thread & 1 Bobbin Theard	Top Stitch Assembly
401	Chain Stitch	Single needle chain stitch M/C	1 Needle Thread & 1 Bobbin Theard	Top Stitch Assembly
402	Chain Stitch	Double needle chain stitch M/C	2 Needle Thread & 2 Bobbin Theard	Top Stitch Assembly
406	Cover Stitch / Interlock	2 Needle & 3 Threads interlock M/C	2 Needle Thread & 1 Bobbin Theard	Top Stitch of hem & Elastic binding
407	Cover Stitch / Interlock	3 Needle & 4 Threads interlock M/C	3 Needle Thread & 1 Bobbin Theard	Top Stitch of hem & Elastic binding
504	Overlock stitch	3 Threads overlock M/C	1 Needle threads & 2 lopper threads	Over stitching
514	Overlock stitch	4 Threads overlock M/C	2 Needle threads & 2 lopper threads	Assembly
516	Overlock stitch	5 threads overlock M/C	2 Needle threads 1 bottom thread 2 lopper threads	Assembly
602	Cover stitch / Interlock	2 Needle & 4 Threads cover stitch M/C	2 Needle threads 1 spreader thread 1 lopper threads	Top stitch of hem
605	Cover stitch / Interlock	3 Needle & 5 Threads cover stitch M/C	3 Needle threads 1 spreader thread 1 lopper threads	Top stitch of hem
607	Flat lock	Flat lock M/C	4 Needle threads 1 spreader thread 1 lopper threads	Assembly

Table - 1: ISO Standards 4915:1991 Stitch classification.

ISO Standards 4915:1991 stitch classification

Sewing is the most important part of the garments manufacturing industry. There are lots of fashionable, stylish design garments manufacturing in the whole world, and that's why different types of stitching used in different garments sewing.

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